A Windy Start to Oregon’s Wild Coast
We left Central Oregon with a simple goal: point the EarthRoamer west, touch the Pacific, and then drive the entire Oregon coast every one of its 362 miles from south to north. We’d spent time mapping out stops on OnX, pinning hikes, beaches, campgrounds, and pull-offs we didn’t want to miss. The plan was to take it slow, follow the coastline as closely as possible, and finally see the Oregon coast the way we’d always imagined it.
Before we even hit the ocean, we dipped briefly into California, skirting the northern edge of the Redwoods. We didn’t stop this time, we're saving that for a future trip but even just driving through was enough to remind us we’ll be back. From there, we cut over to the Pacific and officially started our coastal run.
Our first stop was Brookings Harbor Breachfront RV Campground. It was sunny, calm, and early enough in the day that settling in felt premature. So instead of calling it, we did what we tend to do best: kept driving.
Indian Sands was our real introduction to the coast. We hiked down toward the cliffs with the dogs and stood there watching the ocean slam into the rocks below. The sound was intense, the kind that vibrates through your chest and makes conversation pointless.
We continued north to Natural Bridges, where things got a little more… adventurous. A muddy, steep, and extremely slippery path led us down to the cliff’s edge. But, it was worth it. We were able to walk out on top of one of the natural bridges and watch the ocean rush underneath our feet. After climbing back up, we looped around to see Secret Beach from above. By then, daylight was fading and everyone was hungry, so we skipped the descent to the sand and headed back to the rig to find a place to sleep.
That night landed us at Humbug Mountain State Park. It was our first truly established, RV-style campground of the trip with large sites. We snagged a spot near the walkway to the beach, cooked dinner, and walked down to the water just in time to catch an incredible sunset. One of the best parts of this campground is how inaccessible the beach feels from the road. It’s not private, but it feels close enough.
The next day, we pushed north to Port Orford and hiked at Port Orford Heads State Park, soaking in views of Agate Beach below. From there, we drove to Bandon and found RV parking right in the middle of downtown which felt almost too easy. Lunch was at Tony’s Crab Shack on the water, complete with fresh crab cakes and the novelty of holding a live crab. We wandered downtown afterward, ducked into a chocolate shop, and picked up a few sweet treats before calling it a day.
That night’s camp was Sunset Bay State Park. It was fine but not our favorite. The sites were tightly packed, very developed, and lacked the space and quiet we tend to look for. Still, the next morning made up for it. We walked the beach with the dogs early, waves rolling in under gray skies, before heading north again.
Florence was our next stop. We wandered around town and had dinner at the Waterfront Depot Restaurant, an old train station converted into a cozy spot right on the water. That night we stayed at Baker Beach Campground, which ended up being a great little find with only a handful of sites and a much quieter feel. We fell asleep to the sound of wind picking up.
By morning, the weather had fully turned. Pouring rain. High winds. Flooding started in the campground. There was a weather advisory for an extreme storm rolling in, but we still walked out over the sand dunes to get a look at the ocean. That moment marked the beginning of what would be some of the wildest coastal weather we’ve experienced. Winds hit up to 80 mph, shaking the EarthRoamer, paired with relentless rain that lasted for days.
Several stops we’d planned had to be scratched completely. The coast wasn’t interested in negotiation. We made a quick stop in Yachats for BBQ from a food truck, then kept moving north as conditions allowed.
One of the more unexpected stays of the trip was a Harvest Host night at the Blue Heron French Cheese Company in Tillamook. Dinner, wine tasting, and cheese after days of stormy weather felt like a reset. From there, we headed just a bit farther north to Roam America, where the weather finally broke. For the first time in days, we cooked dinner outside, watched a calm sunset, and even took advantage of the sauna. After everything the coast had thrown at us, it felt like a small reward.
We wrapped up the trip at Fort Stevens State Park, driving out onto the beach to see the Peter Iredale shipwreck and spotting a large herd of elk up close. It felt like a fitting ending windy, dramatic, and unmistakably Oregon.
We didn’t get to everything. The weather made sure of that. But that’s the thing about trips like this they’re not meant to be finished in one pass. The Oregon coast showed us enough to know we’ll be back, hopefully with calmer seas, clearer skies, and a few unfinished pins waiting on the map.
Watch the adventure!
